There are a few wilderness areas you can hit (below Asc Peak and west - I think - of the swamp). Plus there are more than just umpani caves (unless you are counting the wet ones. Off the bayjin path there is a bit to do.You sound like you have the same feeling I had while I was first playing .... every week went by and I kept feeling I was 1/4 to 1/2 done, another week and I would up my estimate, .... ad naseum for about 6 weeks
You won't finish til your party is probably lvl 22 or better. Asc peak and rapax areas can take a while.
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